Pre-Fan/System

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Folks throw these away all the time.

Find them save  $50

Drill a Hole in the sides. Cut hole with handheld  Electric Jigsaw. (Don't Fuck up)

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I'm looking to use this not so much on a Hot day ... but on that HOT NIGHT ... When the Room is 90 degrees ... With one treatment, hopeing

to bring the Room down 20 degrees to 70. It would take a long time for the Temp. to come up again.

Maybe no more than 4 bags of Ice total. ( * See Ice Pks.)

Start with putting the Turbro Fan on LOW Setting and the Valve Closed so the Air has more contact time with the Ice in the Pre-cooler . Then turn the Fan to Med. or High and open the Valve. Thinking this needs to be done often FOR BEST RESULTS.

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Cooler Air to Main Cooler >

COOLER                  AIR

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>COOL AIR >

Copper Pipes  v

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Hi Power / Low Watt

Pre-Cooler

CEILING >  WARM AIR  (Rises)

That leaves the  Airway pipes.

Maybe 2-3 Inch PVC ...

Able to unscrew them.


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(PVC Tubes to other ROOMS)

WARM AIR >>>

 Packs Ice Cubes

 Ice Block

This simple Swamp Cooler 'kind of works' ... but has trouble with a 90 Degree Room.

So were makeng better.



 Racks all the way up to the top.

With Air space in between the Racks, all the Air would have more  Ice  contact.


A 'Pre - Fan ' USB 2.5 W

Is an extra...If you have one ... won't hurt.


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Turbro Main

   Ice Packs, Cubes

           Ice Block

TURBRO FAN

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USB Fan

Flat!

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ICE

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With more thought on this ... The Weather forecast says Triple Digits up and down California for the week. ok ... you put 6 (or more) of these in the Freezer. Then 3 (or more) in each Unit.


They work better than Ice. And can be reused.

Start with Ice  & Frozen Copper Pipes, then upgrade to these.

Welcome

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COLD AIR

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190 CFM

@ 18 Watts

Pre-Fan with System

Racks  between layers of  Ice  for Air Flow

ICE

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Ice Packs

Main Cooler

120 V

Pre-Cooler

Racks >

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Water

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COLD AIR

The  X - 217  Swamp  Cooler

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FLOOR > COOL AIR  (Sinks)

Main

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Warm Air >>>

Pre-Fan/System

Hot Air >>>

PRE-COOLER

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We don't any moisture in here.

The cut Copper Pipes with Frozen Water in them with Corks on the ends

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You want to keep your hard earned Cool Air close to the floor so the Hot Air up at the Ceiling doesn't kill it. Let the Cool Air rise on it's own, Thus slowly cooling the whole room. * Add Tubeing see below bottom of page.

With small exit 'Air Hockey' holes Hot Air can't get back in to your Unit, and your air swirls in the Units longer to get cooler.

You don't  want the Warm Air just rushing through  The Pre-Cooler into the Main, so closing down the Valve first lets it get cooler by swirling it around before it goes into the Main.

Dead air space in Coolers hurts  Ice  so they need to be mostly full. The Racks! *Or Flat Ice Packs.

Another Trick Is is to Pre-Cool the Coolers first.


Follow the Bouncing Ball ... Warm Air  Cool Air  Cold Air.

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Floor

Here is TheTurbro Fan

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VALVE

Main Fan

RACKS >

ICE

You could start with any small fan then upgrade to this one.  (Only 18 Watts!)

> > WARM AIR > >

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Ice Packs

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Celing        > > > > >

Small Drilled Holes (Down)

Frozen Penneys

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MAIN COOLER

Copper Pipes in the Units > Once Cold, Stays cool without melting staying in contact with the Ice.

You could Pre-Freeze Pipe with Ice in them.

Or empty Beer Cans with Frozen Water in them.

This would be your Internal Radiator.

Pre

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Open  Close Valve

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Frozen Copper Pipes

https://www.girard-perregaux.com/row_en/81060-41-3071-1cx.html

The Articles I've read say These (Swamp Coolers) work best in 'A Low Humidity'. Like back East

It also states to open Windows & Doors For Air Flow.

Hum...When it's 100 outside I'm not opening my Windows.

I have Med. Humidity at 65.

Another Article recommends 'A de- Humidafier Unit.

Taking from that ...We will have a 'Room Fan' to move the Air around.

And a small Unit.





Radio UV Meters!

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